Day 53 - 57 Into Turkey (Edirne)

24th March A spot of maintenance

The bike normally runs silently but I've started to hear a rubbing sound when I push hard on the pedals. I check the belt tension for the first time and it feels a bit slack. I work out how to adjust this using the eccentric bottom bracket - easy. There is an iPhone app for doing this believe it or not......you twang the belt like a guitar string and it tells you whether the twang is the right pitch or not. I do it by feel. The noise is still there........it sounds like a brake block rubbing but the wheel rim is still true. In the end it turns out that the rear wheel quick-release is just a bit loose........back to silent running........lovely, just the sound of the skylarks announcing Spring and my lungs pumping oxygen.

Very little wear and no punctures for 5,000km  - I'm impressed!

The eccentrically mounted bottom bracket for tensioning the belt drive

One for the plane spotters - Bulgarian therefore probably Russian?

Horses still used on the land in Bulgaria, here furrowing up the potatoes

Lay-bys full of old carts for sale at bargain prices

March 26th - More rain on the way to Turkey

Packed up and ready to roll from a wet and muddy camp site

Still in Bulgaria but very close to Greece at this point

A bit of sun would be nice

I tried catching up with the horse - and failed

Victor who I met later going the opposite way took a photo of the exact same signpost

There were literally miles and miles of trucks queueing to cross the border into Turkey. The must have had at least a 24 hour wait

..........and the same on the other side. I have the road to myself and weave about a bit to make the most of it. I had to show my passport at 5 different points at the border and pay 15 euros for the visa.........otherwise straightforward.

Another one for the plane spotters

The cemetery fences are plastered with notices of the recently deceased

This is the shared bathroom of the worst hotel I've ever stayed in, it was so bad it was almost funny. I seriously don't think it had been refurbished since the 1920's.

When I arrived in Edirne I was hassled by a few people begging (a totally false first impression of Turkey) and stopped at the first hotel I found as it had wifi and bike storage.

They did have this rather fetching poster on the wall though

Edirne was attractive all though I only saw it at night........... and in the rain.

March 27th

I've been feeling worn out the last few days but getting to Turkey has given me a lift and I have Istanbul in my sights.

My bike attracts attention wherever I go.

I couldn't get out of Edirne without getting trapped in a pastry shop. I ordered sweet and savoury pastries. Those who know me know how I love my 'sticky buns'.  They kindly cut everything into pieces and jumbled them on the plate.

We spot each other in the distance and both veer into the central reservation for a chat, as is the custom. He is Victor from Marseille, heading home after starting his trip in Tasmania. I think he flew from Laos to Kazakhstan. I immediately notice how little gear he is carrying ( oh so beautifully lightweght!)and wonder how he copes without waterproof panniers. (But would I give up my mudguards.......no.) We have the same rear-view mirror and that's about it.  We swap hostel notes, although I openly admit I can't remember where I stayed or when, only that it was good.

And the heavyweight! The difference in layers of clothing might be that he had a tailwind - the bas****d!

March 28th, 2013 Incredible hospitality

Drinking tea in Turkey is the social equivalent of propping up a bar in the UK, although probably healthier and significantly cheaper. I'm doing my usual thing of cutting right through a town centre and I spy a cafe with tasty looking buffet of hot food. I ask for a tea with the meal. The don't serve it on the premises but no problem............a few minutes later a waiter comes in off the street with a cup of tea on a tray. I pay the bill and ask for the toilet, they don't have one on the premises but I'm given a few hand signals and off I go down the street. It seems that the toilet is in a mosque complex. It is.........and I could have washed my feet too but I didn't have a towel.

On my way to the WC

As I pass through small villages old men sat outside beckon me over with that universal 'stirring of a teaspoon' motion. I mostly apologise and tap an imaginary watch on my wrist to signify I'm on a tight schedule....................and for the sake of my bladder. Sometimes I relent and they are very pleasant occasions despite the language barrier.

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Invited to come in and warm myself - most welcome

10km further on I succumb to an invite for tea with the village mafia

Not a great photo but the driver of this truck pulled up right in front of me, got down from the cab and asked me if I needed water, food or anything. I just can't imagine this happening in Europe